Harper Hand Proofers

These technical tips are in regard to the use of the following bladed Harper handproofer models: Junior Echocell and Phantom.

PREPARATION:

First, you need to cut a piece of substrate that is slightly larger than the width of your handproofer and one and a half the length of the instrument. Apply the substrate on the surface of your work table with the help of an adhesive tape. Then, assemble your instrument with the doctor blade and the appropriate anilox for the job by making sure to apply all necessary pressures.

Pass the instrument before the substrate, on it, as well as after it, in order to remove by electrostatic all dust and lint and transfer them unto the rubber roll. Any particles if not removed will be transferred unto the color proof which will appear as multiple ''holes''. Once this gesture is repeated at least twice, put the instrument upside down on the table. Firmly hold, between the index and thumb, a piece of adhesive tape and pass it against the rubber roll. This will remove all particles.

EXECUTION:

There are three essential variables that need to be maintained in order to achieve a color proof that is constant and reliable: Speed, Elevation and pressure. Elevation might be the most important of all three. It is this one that will mostly prevent too much variation in color saturation. An elevation of approximately 75° is required. This angle must be maintained while proofing, no more, no less. In order to maintain all three variables, the body needs to be positioned in such a way that will enable you to transfer your weight thus following in parallel the course of the instrument on the table. It is the whole body that moves rather than just the arm. To achieve this goal, make sure to place your hip beside the substrate. Maintain a moderate speed and pressure throughout the proofing as well. You must print before the substrate and continue afterward. This will help acquiring a color proof tat is acceptable through the entire length of the substrate. Pick up some ink with the spatula similarly to how you would do with a spoon. Then, drop some ink directly on the anilox roll just before the doctor blade. Put back the spatula as fast as you can in the ink recipient once you are done. It is important for this step to be fast since the ink will dry rapidly in the anilox cells. This is even more crucial when using solvent base inks since these mixtures will dry even faster than water base ones. Once the proof is completed, start the cleaning process right away.

CLEAN UP:

Use two clean up rags: one wet and one dry. Utilize the active solvent of the ink being printed. In the case of a water base ink, use a ''magic clean'' formulated with both water and solvent. It is preferable to water alone since this type of cleaning solution will have a more suitable surface tension to washing and cleaning. Pull the doctor blade out of the instrument. This item will be cleaned last. Make sure pressure is reapplied between the anilox and rubber roll. Squirt solvent between the two rolls while rolling the instrument unto the wet rag. Once the essential of the ink has been purged out of the cells of the anilox roll, transfer the instrument unto the dry rag by rolling it the same way. Then, relieve the pressure and inspect the cleanliness of the instrument. Repeat if necessary. To complete, wash the doctor blade using your index under a wet rag by being very careful not to cut yourself.